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WAISTLESS - 11/09/20

FOR THIS PROJECT I WANTED TO FOLLOW A MORE TRADITIONAL PROCESS STARTING WITH THE COMPANY CONCEPT AND ENDING WITH THE SEASONAL DESIGN DIRECTION. THIS IS A COMPANY I’VE BEEN THINKING ON FOR A FEW MONTHS. AS I’VE STARTED EXPLORING SUSTAINABILITY IN NEW WAYS. THE MOST EXCITING PART OF THIS PROJECT WAS WHAT THE COMPANY STOOD FOR. I LOOKED AT EVERYTHING FROM THE TYPE OF DYE USED TO WHO WE WOULD WANT ON OUR TEAM AS A COMPANY. EVERY CHOICE WAS MADE FOR THE GOOD OF WOMAN AND OUR PLANET.



REUSED AND RECYCLED MATERIALS

WE BELIEVE IN USING WHAT ALREADY EXISTS AND LEAVING NOTHING TO WASTE. OUR MAIN GOAL IS TO USE MATERIALS THAT ARE OF THE EARTH. WE TEND TO STICK WITH OUR FRUITS, PLANTS AND TREES. OUR FAVORITES ARE MATERIALS MADE FROM BANANA, PINEAPPLE, bamboo, HEMP, LOTUS AND KAPOK.

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GROWTH AND CHANGE

STYLES COME IN FOUR SIZE SETS, BIG BONED AND SMALL BONED WITH TWO HEIGHT OPTIONS. THESE SETS ARE MADE TO EVOLVE WITH THE BODY THROUGH ITS CHANGES WITH THE ADJUSTABLE AND TRANSFORMABLE CONSTRUCTION AND MATERIALS. WE BELIEVE IN LONG LASTING LOOKS, TRYING TO RID OF FAST FASHION AND FOCUS ON HIGH QUALITY GOODS THAT LAST.

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THE FEMALE FORCE

OUR CLOTHING IS FEMALE FOCUSED. WE ARE A BRAND FOR WOMEN BY WOMEN, WITH A FULL FEMALE DESIGN TEAM. FOR EACH PRODUCT BOUGHT FROM WAISTLESS, 5% IS DONATED TO THE WOMEN’S FOUNDATION OF OREGON. THIS IS A LOCAL FOUNDATION THAT HELPS FEMALES OF ALL AGES GET ON THEIR FEET AND THRIVE.

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DOMESTIC MANUFACTURING

WAISTLESS HEADQUARTERS:

PORTLAND, OR

WE PRIORITIZE DOMESTIC PRODUCTION AND MINIMIZING OUR CARNON FOOTPRINT. WITH OUR HEADQUARTERS IN OREGON AND TEXTILES + MANUFACTURING IN CALIFORNIA WE START AND FINISH OUR GOODS ON THE WEST COAST. WITH OUR RETAIL STORES SOLEY IN THE US AND A 80% OF PRODUCT SOLD ONLINE WE ARE ABLE TO SILENT OUR CARBON FOOTPRINT.

TEXTILES: PACIFIC BLUE GARMENT SOLUTIONS

LOS ANGELES, CA

THIS COMPANY WORKS WITH MANY BRANDS TO PROVIDE THEM WITH SUSTAINABLE DYE SOLUTIONS. WE USE THEM SPECIFICALLY FOR THEIR LOW IMPACT REACTIVE DYING AND HAND TIE-DYES. THE REACTIVE DYING METHOD CONTAINS NON-TOXIC CHEMICALS OR MORDANTS WHICH REQUIRES LESS RINSING AND HAS A QUICK ABSORPTION RATE. ALL DYE PROCESSES USE HERE ARE LOW IMPACT. THIS PLANT IS POWERED BY SOLAR PANALS, USING CLEAN ENERGY.

GARMENT MANUFACTURER: NATURE USA

COMPTON, CA

WE ARE HAPPY TO BE PARTNERED WITH THIS ECO-FOCUSED MANUFACTURER. THEY USE ECO-FRIENDLY FIBERS, CONSERVE AND RU-USE WATER, us water-based printing, GENERATE LESS ENERGY AND ARE LEADERS IN REUSING MATERIALS, THEY COLLECT 100% OF SCRAPS GENERATED IN THE CUTTING PROCESS PRODUCING UP TO HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF POUNDS OF MATERIALS PER YEAR. THEY ALSO RECYCLE ALL BI-PRODUCTS SUCH AS BOXES, YARN CONES, POLY BAGS, PALLETS, PAPER, BOTTLES AND CANS. .

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ONCE I CAME UP WHO THE COMPANY WAS, I STARTED IDEATING ON WHAT THE APPAREL WOULD LOOK LIKE. I CREATED THREE MINI-COLLECTIONS . EACH COLLECTION WAS FOCUSED ON. A NEW SEASON AND A NEW FUNCTIONAL SOLVE FOR EXPANDABILITY. THE GOAL BEING TO SHOW HOW THE MANY DIFFERENT AVENUES WE CAN TAKE TO CREATE LONG-LASTING AND CHANGING APPAREL.


FA/HO21

FOR THE FA/HO21 COLLECTION I WENT FOR A VERY CLEAN AND TAILORED LOOK. I WANTED TO USE THE FIRST COLLECTION TO CHALLENGE MY IDEA OF A MOLDABLE FIT, SO I USED A LOT OF WOVEN MATERIALS. THE MAIN IDEA OF THIS COLLECTION IS THAT I WOULD USE PANEL BREAKS TO ADD ELASTICITY. BETWEEN SEAM BREAKS I WOULD ADD 1.2CM WIDTH OF ELASTIC MATERIALS BETWEEN EACH BREAK, PROVIDING EXTRA GIVE IN THE AREAS YOU NEED. I PUT A LOT OF ATTENTION INTO WHERE THESE PANEL BREAKS WOULD SIT, PROVIDING YOU THE GIVE WHERE YOU NEED IT. THE THEME OF THIS SEASON WAS TAILORED AND COZY. THE COZINESS COMES FROM THE DESERT COLOR STORY AND THE SOFT CORDUROY, SUEDE AND KNIT MATERIALS.

 

SP/SU22

SP/SU22 I WANTED TO EXPLORE micro x macro shirring. I ENDED UP USING THE MICRO SHIRRING MORE ZONALLY, WHERE THE MACRO SHIRRING WAS USED TO CREATE EXPANDABILITY AROUND THE WAIST. WETHER YOU WANT A MORE FORMLESS LOOK OR SOMETHING THAT HUGS YOUR FIGURE, THE MICRO SHIRRING ALLOWS FOR A PERFECT FIT FOR BOTH. THE LINE HAS A VERY CLASSIC AND ESSENTIAL FEEL WITH A FUN TWIST ON THE FORM AND FIT. EVEN DRESSED UP, THIS LINE PROVIDES AN EFFORTLESS COMFORT. THIS COLLECTION WAS FULLY WOVEN, USING A MIXTURE OF SILK/LINEN LIKE MATERIAL AND BRUSHED WOVEN MADE FROM BANANAS AND A COZY COTTON LIKE MATERIAL MADE FROM HEMP. ALL MATERIALS MELT AND MOLD WITH YOU THROUGH TIME.

 

FA/HO22

FA/HO22 I WAS INSPIRED BY TRADITIONAL JAPANESE OVERSIZED SILHOUETTES, SASHIKO STITCHING AND DENIM PATCHWORK. I FELL IN LOVE WITH SASHIKO STITCHING WHILE WORKING ON THIS PROJECT, IT CONVERTS EVERY DAY APPAREL INTO AN ART TAPESTRY. ALL MATERIALS USED FOR THIS SEASON WERE MADE FROM KAPOK. ALL PIECES THAT USE SASHIKO WERE MADE FROM A CANVAS DENIM MATERIAL TO CREATE THE DENIM PATCHWORK FEEL. THE COLOR IS LEFT RAW IN A SOMEWHAT OFF-WHITE COLORS, THIS WAS BOTH BETTER FOR THE ENVIRONMENT AND GAVE IT A MODERNIZED LOOK. THESE PIECES ARE LINED WITH KAPOK SILK. THE REST OF THE LINE USED A CASHMERE LIKE KNIT AND OVERSIZED SILHOUETTES. WHILE THIS LINE IS STILL VERY SIMPLISTIC AND MODERN, I TRIED TO INCLUDE JAPANESE INFLUENCE THROUGHOUT THE LINE.

prototypING

I WANTED TO CREATED ONE OF THE PIECES FROM THIS COLLECTION. I DECIDED TO GO WITH ONE OF THE FALL/HOLLIDAY SASHIKO JACKETS.

  • i first re-worked the details of my drawing, taking pieces from the jackets I loved from the options above and narrowing. these more detailed drawings help flush out construction details you might not get to focus on in a quick sketch

  • i then had to draft my base patterns. i wanted this to fit me perfectly so in order to pattern my kimono i first had to create my base set of patterns to draft off of.

  • once my base patterns was made i drafted the kimono pattern taking various construction methods from my PATTERN book and merging them to create the exact design lines I intended. i always start with the base then figure out the cuffs and collar as I have the final dimensions.

  • my proto fit me near perfect without the lining inside so i decided to finish up the edges and add some fun character to the proto so this could be wearable. i was worried i might love the proto more than the final!

  • i captured my fit notes / adjustments and ordered them to quickly remake the second round proto. while i could jump to the final I wanted to rework the sleeves to become a ragalan sleeve and have a looser sleeve drop as well. better safe than sorry.

i first re-worked the details of my drawing, taking pieces from the jackets I loved from the options above and narrowing. these more detailed drawings help flush out construction details you might not get to focus on in a quick sketch

i first re-worked the details of my drawing, taking pieces from the jackets I loved from the options above and narrowing. these more detailed drawings help flush out construction details you might not get to focus on in a quick sketch

i then had to draft my base patterns. i wanted this to fit me perfectly so in order to pattern my kimono i first had to create my base set of patterns to draft off of.

i then had to draft my base patterns. i wanted this to fit me perfectly so in order to pattern my kimono i first had to create my base set of patterns to draft off of.

once my base patterns was made i drafted the kimono pattern taking various construction methods from my PATTERN book and merging them to create the exact design lines I intended.

once my base patterns was made i drafted the kimono pattern taking various construction methods from my PATTERN book and merging them to create the exact design lines I intended.

my proto fit me near perfect without the lining inside so i decided to finish up the edges and add some fun character to the proto so this could be wearable. i was worried i might love the proto more than the final!

my proto fit me near perfect without the lining inside so i decided to finish up the edges and add some fun character to the proto so this could be wearable. i was worried i might love the proto more than the final!

my proto fit me near perfect without the lining inside so i decided to finish up the edges and add some fun character to the proto so this could be wearable. i was worried i might love the proto more than the final!

my proto fit me near perfect without the lining inside so i decided to finish up the edges and add some fun character to the proto so this could be wearable. i was worried i might love the proto more than the final!

my proto fit me near perfect without the lining inside so i decided to finish up the edges and add some fun character to the proto so this could be wearable. i was worried i might love the proto more than the final!

my proto fit me near perfect without the lining inside so i decided to finish up the edges and add some fun character to the proto so this could be wearable. i was worried i might love the proto more than the final!

i captured my fit notes / adjustments and ordered them to quickly remake the second round proto. while i could jump to the final I wanted to rework the sleeves to become a ragalan sleeve and have a looser sleeve drop as well. better safe than sorry.…

i captured my fit notes / adjustments and ordered them to quickly remake the second round proto. while i could jump to the final I wanted to rework the sleeves to become a ragalan sleeve and have a looser sleeve drop as well. better safe than sorry.

FULL SET PATTERNS - PATTERN ROUND 2 WITH RAGLAN SLEEVE.